ContentsQUICK ANSWER – THE BEST BELAY DEVICESCOMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST BELAY DEVICESBELAY DEVICES REVIEWSPETZL GRIGRICAMP MATIKMAMMUT SMARTEDELRID MEGA JULCLIMBING TECHNOLOGY CLICK-UP PLUSBLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDEPETZL REVERSO 4DMM PIVOTBLACK DIAMOND ATCHOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST BELAY DEVICESBELAY DEVICE STYLEBRAKE ASSISTPASSIVE BRAKE ASSISTTUBULARAUTO-BLOCK TUBULARSINGLE OR DUAL ROPE SLOTSWEIGHTCARING FOR YOUR DEVICE There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. As a belayer, your partner trusts you to catch them when they fall and get them back to the ground safely once they’ve finished a route. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. Whether you are a gym climber, trad climber, sport climber, alpine climber or all of the above, our goal here at The Adventure Junkies is to help you pick the best belay device and get you one step closer to your next adventure. Awesome belay technique is the most important part about being a great belayer. As belaying is critically important to the safety of the climber, we recommend learning proper belay technique from an expert or through an AMGA-certified course to get you going. For more of out top climbing gear recommendations, check out these popular articles: Ropes | Harnesses | Helmets | Backpacks Climbing Shoes | Approach Shoes | Pants | Shorts | Shirts Carabiners | Cams | Nuts | Quickdraws | Pulleys | Belay Devices Bouldering Shoes | Bouldering Pants | Crash Pads QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST BELAY DEVICES 1. PETZL GRIGRI VIEW AT REI 2. CAMP MATIK VIEW AT BACKCOUNTRY 3. MAMMUT SMART VIEW AT BACKCOUNTRY 4. EDELRID MEGAJUL VIEW AT REI 5. CLIMBING TECHNOLOGY CLICK UP VIEW AT REI 6. BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE VIEW AT REI 7. PETZL REVERSO VIEW AT REI 8. DMM PIVOT VIEW AT BACKCOUNTRY 9. BLACK DIAMOND ATC VIEW AT REI COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST BELAY DEVICES PICTUREBELAY DEVICESTYLE WEIGHTROPE SIZEPRICERATING PICTUREBELAY DEVICESTYLE WEIGHTROPE SIZEPRICERATING Petzl GriGriBrake assist6.1 oz8.9 mm - 11.0 mm$$5.0 Camp MatikBrake assist9.7 oz8.6 mm - 10.2 mm$$$4.5 Mammut SmartPassive brake assist4.8 oz8.7 mm - 10.5 mm$$4.0 Edelrid Mega JulPassive brake assist2.3 oz7.8 mm - 10.5 mm$4.1 Climbing Technology Click Up PlusPassive brake assist4.3 oz8.6 mm - 10.5 mm$$4.7 Black Diamond ATC GuideAuto-block tube3.2 oz7.7 mm - 11.0 mm$4.7 Petzl Reverso 4Auto-block tube2.2 oz7.5 mm - 11.0 mm$4.5 DMM PivotAuto-block tube2.6 oz7.3 mm - 11.0 mm$4.4 Black Diamond ATCTube2.0 oz7.7 mm - 11.0 mm$4.8 BELAY DEVICES REVIEWS PETZL GRIGRI Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI BEST USE: Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 6.1 oz ROPE SLOTS: One ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 8.9 mm – 11 mm PROS: Smooth rope handling, easy to use, standard brake assist device in the industry CONS: Fairly expensive, single strand only CAMP MATIK Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST USE: Beginners; Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 9.7 oz ROPE SLOTS: One ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 8.6 mm – 10.2 mm PROS: Gradual camming action, anti-panic system blocks rope in emergency, easier for lefties CONS: Very expensive, heavy, not as smooth as a GriGri, single strand only MAMMUT SMART Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST USE: Sport, trad, or gym single pitch; Alpine climbing WEIGHT: 4.8 oz ROPE SLOTS: Two ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 8.7 mm – 10.5 mm PROS: Good value, durable, dynamically brakes the climber in a fall CONS: Somewhat bulky, jerky when rappelling/lowering EDELRID MEGA JUL Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI BEST USE: Multi-pitch climbing; Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 2.3 oz ROPE SLOTS: Two ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 7.8 mm – 10.5 mm PROS: Lightweight, small, great value, accommodates single or double ropes, strong braking assistance CONS: Poor auto-block friction, rappelling/lowering can be strenuous CLIMBING TECHNOLOGY CLICK-UP PLUS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI BEST USE: Gym climbing; Beginners WEIGHT: 4.3 oz ROPE SLOTS: One ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 8.6 mm – 10.5 mm PROS: Suitable for beginners and children because intuitive and error-proof, no moving parts CONS: Doesn’t lock up immediately for top-rope “takes” or when belaying a lighter climber BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI BEST USE: Multi-pitch climbing; Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 3.2 oz ROPE SLOTS: Two ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 7.7 mm – 11.0 mm PROS: Great for belaying a second on multi-pitch climbs, accommodates single or double ropes, good value CONS: Lowering is difficult in guide mode, not ideal with thicker ropes PETZL REVERSO 4 Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI BEST USE: Multi-pitch climbing; Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 2.2 oz ROPE SLOTS: Two ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 7.5 mm – 11.0 mm PROS: Lightweight, great for belaying a second on multi-pitch climbs, accommodates single or double ropes, good value CONS: Lowering is difficult in guide mode, not ideal with thicker ropes DMM PIVOT Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST USE: Multi-pitch climbing; Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 2.6 oz ROPE SLOTS: Two ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 7.3 mm – 11.0 mm PROS: Unique pivot system for easy lowering when in guide mode, accommodates single or double ropes, good for rappelling CONS: Not ideal with thicker ropes BLACK DIAMOND ATC Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI BEST USE: Sport, trad, or gym single pitch WEIGHT: 2.0 oz ROPE SLOTS: Two ROPE SIZE ALLOWANCE: 7.7 mm – 11.0 mm PROS: Very lightweight, inexpensive, accommodates single or double ropes, good for rappelling CONS: No guide mode for use on multi-pitch climbs Gear up for climbing, without breaking the bankGet the Latest Deals on Climbing GearSent right to your inbox...GEAR UP FOR CLIMBING HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST BELAY DEVICES BELAY DEVICE STYLE BRAKE ASSIST Brake assist belay devices offer a mechanical advantage to help the belayer to brake effectively. These devices are especially useful when you are belaying someone on a project (a route that is very difficult for the climber) and catching lots of falls. They are also great if your climber calls “Take!”, because with proper belay technique no extra slack can pass through the device. Brake assist devices are often equipped with a camming mechanism. PASSIVE BRAKE ASSIST Passive brake assist devices also help with braking when tension is applied in the system. These devices work by pinching the rope between the device and a carabiner. TUBULAR Regular tubular belay devices offer no brake assist. These devices arrest a fall by relying on friction between the rope and the device coupled with proper belay technique. They are simple to use, light and inexpensive. AUTO-BLOCK TUBULAR Auto-block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side. The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top-belay a second. Top-belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto-blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall. In all situations, the brake hand should never come off the rope when you are belaying. Remember that even brake assist devices are not foolproof and must be always be used with correct belaying technique. SINGLE OR DUAL ROPE SLOTS One advantage of dual rope slots in a belay device is that it is easy to rappel using the same device. In many situations routes may not have fixed anchors, meaning that rappelling is often necessary. Many multi-pitch routes also require that climbers rappel to descend. Climbers who prefer to climb alpine and multi-pitch routes with twin or half ropes also need a belay device that can accommodate both ropes at once. WEIGHT Are you heading into the alpine or planning to tackle some long multi-pitch routes? If so, weight is probably one of your deciding factors when choosing gear. Belay tubes are much lighter than brake assist devices and tend to be a great choice for these pursuits. They are also simple to use and have two rope slots which make them great for rappelling. If you tend to climb mostly in the gym or on single pitch routes outside, weight is less of a concern and a heavier brake assist device is a great option. CARING FOR YOUR DEVICE Store your belay device when it is clean and dry. If gunk has accumulated in your device, use an old toothbrush to gently remove it. Inspect your device regularly to watch for grooves or sharp edges forming in the metal which may come in contact with your rope. ROCK CLIMBING RESOURCESTABLE OF CONTENTSROCK CLIMBINGTABLE OF CONTENTS 1. BASICS 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 6. TRAINING 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 7. SAFETY 4. CLIMBING GEAR 8. PSYCHOLOGY 1. BASICS 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 4. CLIMBING GEAR 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 6. TRAINING 7. SAFETY 8. PSYCHOLOGY Disclosure: The Adventure Junkies is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost for you. We also use other affiliate programs like REI, LeisurePro, Diviac and Liveaboard.com.