ContentsQUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CARABINERSCARABINERS REVIEWSPETZL ATTACHE 3DBLACK DIAMOND GRIDLOCK MAGNETRONDMM BELAY MASTER 2BLACK DIAMOND ROCKLOCKMAD ROCK ULTRA TECHBLACK DIAMOND POSITRONPETZL SPIRITMETOLIUS FS MINI IIDMM SPECTRE 2WILD COUNTRY HELIUM 2COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CARABINERSHOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CARABINERSSCREW-GATE OR SNAP-GATE?WEIGHT AND SIZETHE GATE OPENINGSTRENGTHCOLORNOSE STYLEWIRE-GATE OR SOLID-GATE There’s a confusing array of carabiners on the market. Do you need a screw-gate or a snap-gate? A tiny lightweight carabiner or a hefty chunk of metal? Why are some $10, but others $30? How do figure out what’s the best carabiner for you? The Adventure Junkies will help you choose the right carabiner for your type of climbing, whether you’re building up a rack from scratch or just adding a few extra pieces. We’ve listed the ten best carabiners for the job. You’ll need different types depending on if you’re using it to belay with, as a multi-purpose carabiner or just for racking your cams. For more of out top climbing gear recommendations, check out these popular articles: Ropes | Harnesses | Helmets | Backpacks Climbing Shoes | Approach Shoes | Pants | Shorts | Shirts Carabiners | Cams | Nuts | Quickdraws | Pulleys | Belay Devices Bouldering Shoes | Bouldering Pants | Crash Pads cloud-downloadCLICK HERE to Download our FREE Quick Starter Guide to Climbing. Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/filromPhoto by istockphoto.com/portfolio/Rumo QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CARABINERS Petzl Attache 3D Black Diamond GridLock Magnetron DMM Belay Master 2 Black Diamond RockLock Mad Rock Ultra Tech Black Diamond Positron Petzl Spirit Metolius FS Mini II DMM Spectre 2 Wild Country Helium 2 CARABINERS REVIEWS PETZL ATTACHE 3D Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI WEIGHT: 56g STYLE: HMS Screw-gate GATE OPENING: 24mm PROS: Very lightweight, large gate opening, red marking to show if the screw-gate is undone CONS: Some users reported the screw-gate getting stuck (this can be avoided by not over-tightening it) BLACK DIAMOND GRIDLOCK MAGNETRON Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 78g STYLE: Belay Specific GATE OPENING: 21mm PROS: Innovative dual magnet locking gate, separation for belay loop and rope CONS: Cannot be used ski touring (due to magnetic interference with transceiver), separation can be fiddly to use DMM BELAY MASTER 2 Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 100g STYLE: Belay Specific GATE OPENING: 18.5mm PROS: Tried and tested plastic separator to prevent cross loading and accidental unscrewing CONS: Heavy BLACK DIAMOND ROCKLOCK Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 89g STYLE: HMS Screw-gate GATE OPENING: 20mm PROS: Versatile, large easy to use size CONS: Heavy MAD ROCK ULTRA TECH Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 56g STYLE: Screw-gate GATE OPENING: 18mm PROS: Low price, smooth locking system CONS: None that we’ve found BLACK DIAMOND POSITRON Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 56g STYLE: Screw-gate GATE OPENING: 21mm PROS: Large gate opening, very versatile CONS: None that we’ve found PETZL SPIRIT Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 45g STYLE: Screw-gate GATE OPENING: 18mm PROS: Very lightweight, red marking to show if the screw-gate is undone CONS: Quite expensive for a smaller screw-gate METOLIUS FS MINI II Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 23g STYLE: Snap-gate GATE OPENING: 17.5mm PROS: Very lightweight, low bulk on harness, available in different colors CONS: Too small to use with gloves on DMM SPECTRE 2 Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 32g STYLE: Snap-gate GATE OPENING: 25mm PROS: Large gate opening, easy to use with gloves on, available in different colors CONS: None that we’ve found WILD COUNTRY HELIUM 2 Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry WEIGHT: 33g STYLE: Snap-gate GATE OPENING: 27mm PROS: Innovative hood to stop gear snagging on the nose, large gate opening CONS: Quite expensive COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CARABINERS PICTURECARABINERBEST USEWEIGHTSTYLEGATE OPENINGPRICERATING PICTURECARABINERBEST USEWEIGHTSTYLEGATE OPENINGPRICERATING Petzl Attache 3DBelay56gHMS Screwgate24.0 mm$$5.0 Black Diamond GridLock MagnetronBelay78gBelay Specific21.0 mm$$$4.0 DMM Belay Master 2Belay100gBelay Specific18.5 mm$$$4.0 Black Diamond RockLockBelay89gHMS Screwgate21.0 mm$4.4 Mad Rock Ultra TechGeneral56gScrewgate18.0 mm$4.7 Black Diamond PositronGeneral56gScrewgate21.0 mm$$4.8 Petzl SpiritGeneral45gScrewgate18.0 mm$$5.0 Metolius FS Mini IIRacking Gear23gSnapgate17.5 mm$4.9 DMM Spectre 2Racking Gear32gSnapgate25.0 mm$5.0 Wild Country Helium 2Racking Gear33gSnapgate27.0 mm$$5.0 Gear up for climbing, without breaking the bankGet the Latest Deals on Climbing GearSent right to your inbox...GEAR UP FOR CLIMBING HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CARABINERS SCREW-GATE OR SNAP-GATE? This is the most basic decision when choosing a carabiner. The general guideline to go by is: if it’s involved in a belay, you need a screw-gate. Your belay carabiner itself needs to be a screw-gate. It’s better to use a HMS style carabiner for belaying, as the rope will run more smoothly over the wider end. Some screw-gates are specifically designed to be used for belaying. The carabiners used at an anchor should also be screw-gates. These include the ones attaching your sling or cordellette to the bolts or gear at the anchor, and the one attaching you to the cordellette. Snap-gates are used both on gear and as quickdraws. Quickdraws tend to be purchased already made up, though you can make your own. If you buy some cams or nuts, though, you’ll need to buy some carabiners to rack them on too. WEIGHT AND SIZE How heavy your rack is can really influence your climbing, especially with a massive trad rack on? No one wants to be weighed down by tons of metal when they’re run out and pumped. The difference between light and heavy carabiners may only be a couple of ounces, but with 20 hanging off your harness, that adds up. The downside of light gear is that it tends to be less durable and is often smaller in size. This can make carabiners difficult to use with gloves on – a definite concern if you enjoy winter or alpine climbing. THE GATE OPENING The gate opening measurement is simply how big the gap is when you push the gate open. If this is bigger, it tends to mean the carabiner is easier to clip and unclip. The size can influence this too. STRENGTH All the carabiners listed here and on sale for climbing are more than strong enough. They’re required to meet a minimum UIAA strength of 22kN when closed, along the long axis. But across the short axis or with the gate open, this strength will be much less. Be very careful not to cross load your carabiners as this will reduce their strength to about one third. COLOR For screw-gates, the color doesn’t generally matter. For racking cams, it’s best to have a carabiner that matches the color of your cam to make it easier to find on your climbing harness. NOSE STYLE All carabiners have either a keylock nose or a non-keylock nose. A keylock nose has a small notch to allow the gate to slot into it. Non-keylocks do not have this. Keylocks have two main disadvantages: they’re slightly weaker and they tend to catch on gear and slings. Non-keylocks are becoming much more popular and are highly recommended. WIRE-GATE OR SOLID-GATE This decision only applies to snap-gate carabiners. Gates are made of either a piece of wire or a solid metal bar. Wire performs better in the winter as it is less likely to freeze shut, and they are usually lighter. Wire-gates tend to be more expensive and most have a keylock style nose that can snag on gear. ROCK CLIMBING RESOURCESTABLE OF CONTENTSROCK CLIMBINGTABLE OF CONTENTS 1. BASICS 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 6. TRAINING 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 7. SAFETY 4. CLIMBING GEAR 8. PSYCHOLOGY 1. BASICS 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 4. CLIMBING GEAR 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 6. TRAINING 7. SAFETY 8. PSYCHOLOGY Disclosure: The Adventure Junkies is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost for you. We also use other affiliate programs like REI, LeisurePro, Diviac and Liveaboard.com.