ContentsQUICK ANSWER – THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBINGCOMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBINGCLIMBING QUICKDRAWS REVIEWSPETZL SPIRIT EXPRESSMAMMUT CRAG EXPRESSCAMP USA ORBIT EXPRESSBLACK DIAMOND LIVEWIREBLACK DIAMOND POSITRONMADROCK SUPER LIGHTBLACK DIAMOND FREEWIREEDELRID NINETEEN GPETZL ANGE FINESSEHOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBINGCLIMBING STYLEQUICKDRAWS FOR SPORT CLIMBINGQUICKDRAWS FOR TRAD & ALPINE CLIMBINGQUICKDRAWS FOR ALL-AROUND CLIMBINGSOLID GATE OR WIRE GATESOLID GATE CARABINERSWIRE GATE CARABINERSWEIGHT AND STRENGTHLENGTHLIFESPAN Most rock climbers get super excited when they begin collecting shiny climbing hardware! Quickdraws are usually an early buy following shoes, harness, chalk bag and belay device. Quickdraws connect your climbing rope to your protection (bolts or traditional gear) while you climb. Every quickdraw is made up of two non-locking carabiners and a sling known as the “dogbone”. While you can assemble your own, pre-made draws are more reliable and less expensive. With so many models available, how do you know what are the best quickdraws for rock climbing? Here at The Adventure Junkies, our goal is to help make your life easier when it comes to gearing up for climbing. In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to choose a quickdraw and show you some of the best models of the year. For more of out top climbing gear recommendations, check out these popular articles: Ropes | Harnesses | Helmets | Backpacks Climbing Shoes | Approach Shoes | Pants | Shorts | Shirts Carabiners | Cams | Nuts | Quickdraws | Pulleys | Belay Devices Bouldering Shoes | Bouldering Pants | Crash Pads QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBING 1. PETZL SPIRIT EXPRESS VIEW AT REI 2. BLACK DIAMOND LIVEWIRE VIEW AT REI 3. CAMP USA ORBIT EXPRESS VIEW AT REI 4. BLACK DIAMOND POSITRON VIEW AT REI 5. MAMMUT CRAG EXPRESS VIEW AT AMAZON 6. MADROCK SUPER LIGHT VIEW AT AMAZON 7. BLACK DIAMOND FREEWIRE VIEW AT REI 8. PETZL ANGE FINESSE VIEW AT REI 9. EDELRID NINETEEN G VIEW AT EDELRID COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBING PICTUREQuickdrawsBEST FORGATEWEIGHTLENGTHSPRICERATING PICTUREQuickdrawsBEST FORGATEWEIGHTLENGTHSPRICERATING Petzl Spirit ExpressSportSolid3.3 oz12, 17 cm$$5.0 Mammut Crag ExpressSportSolid, Wire3.6 oz10 cm$$4.8 CAMP USA Orbit ExpressSportSolid3.6 oz11 cm$4.5 Black Diamond LivewireSportSolid, Wire3.8 oz12 cm$$$4.3 Black Diamond PositronAll-AroundSolid3.8 oz12, 18 cm$4.9 Madrock Super LightAll-AroundSolid, Wire2.6 oz10 cm$4.5 Black Diamond FreewireAll-AroundWire3.5 oz12, 18 cm$4.0 Edelrid Nineteen G Trad & AlpineWire1.7 oz10, 18 cm$$4.6 Petzl Ange FinesseTrad & AlpineWire2.2 oz10, 17 cm$$$4.4 CLIMBING QUICKDRAWS REVIEWS PETZL SPIRIT EXPRESS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI GATES: Solid, keylock WEIGHT: 3.3 oz SLING: Polyester LENGTHS: 12, 17 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 23 kN PROS: Clips smooth and fast, ergonomic dogbone is easy to grab, keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught CONS: Fairly expensive, not ideal for trad or alpine climbing MAMMUT CRAG EXPRESS Check out the latest price on: Amazon GATES: Solid, keylock; Wire, notched WEIGHT: 3.6 oz SLING: Nylon LENGTHS: 10 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN PROS: Easy to grab, keylock on bolt end, wire gate on rope end adds lightness CONS: Heavy, notched gate occasionally gets caught, one length only CAMP USA ORBIT EXPRESS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI GATES: Solid, keylock WEIGHT: 3.6 oz SLING: Polyester LENGTHS: 11cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 22 kN PROS: Great value, keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught CONS: Heavy, one length only BLACK DIAMOND LIVEWIRE Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI GATES: Solid, keylock; Wire with hoodwire technology WEIGHT: 3.8 oz SLING: Nylon LENGTHS: 12 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN PROS: Easy to clip with deep basket, keylock on bolt end, hoodwire prevents rope catching on nose CONS: Expensive, heavy, one length only BLACK DIAMOND POSITRON Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI GATES: Solid, keylock WEIGHT: 3.8 oz SLING: Polyester LENGTHS: 12, 18 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 25 kN PROS: Great value, easy clipping, keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught CONS: Heavy, very large sling opening at bolt end MADROCK SUPER LIGHT Check out the latest price on: Amazon GATES: Solid, keylock; Wire, notched WEIGHT: 2.6 oz SLING: Dyneema LENGTHS: 10 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN PROS: Great value, keylock on bolt end, wire gate on rope end adds lightness CONS: Notched gate occasionally gets caught, one length only BLACK DIAMOND FREEWIRE Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI GATES: Wire, notched WEIGHT: 3.5 oz SLING: Polyester LENGTHS: 12, 18 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN PROS: Great value, large enough biners to grab with gloves on when ice climbing CONS: Notched gate occasionally gets caught EDELRID NINETEEN G Check out the latest price on: EDELRID GATES: Wire, notched WEIGHT: 1.7 oz SLING: Dyneema LENGTHS: 10, 18 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 20 kN PROS: Extremely light, remarkably easy to clip CONS: Notched gate occasionally gets caught, very small biners, specialized PETZL ANGE FINESSE Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI GATES: Wire, keylock technology WEIGHT: 2.2 oz SLING: Dyneema LENGTHS: 10, 17 cm MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 20 kN PROS: Lightweight, modified keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught, durable CONS: Expensive, small biners, specialized Gear up for climbing, without breaking the bankGet the Latest Deals on Climbing GearSent right to your inbox...GEAR UP FOR CLIMBING HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBING CLIMBING STYLE The style of climbing you do can help you narrow in on the best quickdraw choice for you. QUICKDRAWS FOR SPORT CLIMBING Sport climbers tend to prefer beefy draws. A wide dogbone is much easier to grab for those times when you’re working a route or need to pull on a draw. Large biners are also preferred because they make clipping easy and efficient. Solid gate keylock carabiners are great for sport climbing and top roping because they won’t get caught on the rope when unclipping. QUICKDRAWS FOR TRAD & ALPINE CLIMBING Traditional and alpine climbers are focused on weight. Quickdraws designed for these disciplines will have lightweight carabiners and skinny dogbones. The carabiners are usually wire gate as these are lighter and less prone to icing up. QUICKDRAWS FOR ALL-AROUND CLIMBING All-around quickdraws have elements that make them suitable for the climber that does a little bit of everything. Often these draws have medium width dogbones, are in a mid-weight range, and have good overall handling. SOLID GATE OR WIRE GATE The carabiners on your quickdraw come with either a solid gate or a wire gate. All carabiners need to latch in some way when the gate closes. SOLID GATE CARABINERS Solid gate carabiners have a groove in the gate which slides over the smooth biner nose, and are referred to as keylock biners. Keylock biners have no notch for the rope to catch on and are ideal for sport climbing. WIRE GATE CARABINERS Wire gate carabiners often have a notch on the nose to latch the gate when it closes. In response to ropes getting caught in these notches while unclipping, some companies have released innovative solutions like hoodwire technology and modified keylock. Wire gate carabiners are lighter, less prone to gate flutter, and do not ice over as easily as solid gate biners. WEIGHT AND STRENGTH The carabiners and the dogbone both contribute to the weight of a quickdraw. Alpine and traditional climbers use a lot of heavy gear, so lightweight quickdraws are a huge plus. Small wire gate carabiners with narrow dogbones are common for this type of climbing. All climbing carabiners meet a minimum strength standard, however heavier carabiners are often rated to a higher kN strength. A quickdraw rated to 20 kN along its major strength axis can handle up to 4500 lbs of generated force. Controlled experiments that test the limits of gear have found heavy and higher strength carabiners often handle more high factor falls before warping or breaking. If you’re sport climbing and expect to be taking repeated giant whips on your quickdraws, look for heftier biners. LENGTH The length of your dogbone comes down to personal preference. A quickdraw with a shorter dogbone will be less expensive, but longer quickdraws are more versatile. If you are climbing routes that wander, longer draws can help reduce rope drag. LIFESPAN Always monitor the dogbone that connects the two carabiners on your quickdraw for wear. UV light and abrasion are the two big killers of slings. Dogbones usually last between two and ten years depending on the amount of use and the manufacturer recommendations. The lifespan of the carabiners is indefinite, but with a lot of use they will eventually need to be replaced. Watch the groove at the base of the rope-end biner, which can wear down and develop sharp edges after repeated use and falls. Also, watch for sticky gates that no longer close or other visible damage. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on the lifespan of your gear. Check your gear frequently, and be smart. ROCK CLIMBING RESOURCESTABLE OF CONTENTSROCK CLIMBINGTABLE OF CONTENTS 1. BASICS 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 6. TRAINING 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 7. SAFETY 4. CLIMBING GEAR 8. PSYCHOLOGY 1. BASICS 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 4. CLIMBING GEAR 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 6. TRAINING 7. SAFETY 8. PSYCHOLOGY Disclosure: The Adventure Junkies is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost for you. We also use other affiliate programs like REI, LeisurePro, Diviac and Liveaboard.com.