ContentsQUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CLIMBING NUTSCLIMBING NUTS REVIEWSBLACK DIAMOND STOPPERSWILD COUNTRY ROCKSOMEGA PACIFIC WEDGIE NUTSDMM WALLNUTSMETOLIUS CURVE NUTSBLACK DIAMOND MICRO STOPPERSDMM MICRO WALLNUTSBLACK DIAMOND OFFSET MICRO STOPPERSDMM ALLOY OFFSETSWILD COUNTRY SUPERLIGHT OFFSETSCOMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CLIMBING NUTSHOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING NUTSSHAPEOFFSET NUTSMICRO NUTSNUMBER OF NUTSLEARN TO PLACE THEMGET SOME RACKING CARABINERSGET A NUT TOOL They’re an essential part of any climber’s trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There’s many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you’re going to buy. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you’re getting your first gear for trad climbing. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten nuts. These will give you a good range of sizes. This is important for having the correct size on your rack for the placement that you’re about to use. Most climbers start off with a set of ‘regular’ nuts, then supplement these over time with a second set or some offset and micro nuts. Variety is best, so if you’re going to buy two sets, make sure they’re different brands. This will give you more placement options. For more of out top climbing gear recommendations, check out these popular articles: Ropes | Harnesses | Helmets | Backpacks Climbing Shoes | Approach Shoes | Pants | Shorts | Shirts Carabiners | Cams | Nuts | Quickdraws | Pulleys | Belay Devices Bouldering Shoes | Bouldering Pants | Crash Pads cloud-downloadCLICK HERE to Download our FREE Quick Starter Guide to Climbing. Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/buenaventuramarianoPhoto by istockphoto.com/portfolio/epantha QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CLIMBING NUTS Black Diamond Stoppers Wild Country Rocks Omega Pacific Wedgie Nuts DMM Wallnuts Metolius Curve Nuts Black Diamond Micro Stoppers DMM Micro Wallnuts Black Diamond Offset Micro Stoppers DMM Alloy Offsets Wild Country Superlight Offsets CLIMBING NUTS REVIEWS BLACK DIAMOND STOPPERS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: A first set of nuts SHAPE: Standard curve NUMBER IN SET: 10 – also sold as a set of 7, of the larger sizes, or thirteen including some smaller sizes PROS: Great range of sizes, easy to use CONS: Don’t sit as well as some other brands WILD COUNTRY ROCKS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: Everything! SHAPE: Standard curve NUMBER IN SET: 14, but sold individually on Amazon PROS: Huge range of sizes, place easily CONS: Not available as a full set in the US OMEGA PACIFIC WEDGIE NUTS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: A basic set of do-it-all nuts SHAPE: Standard curve NUMBER IN SET: 13 PROS: Great value CONS: Not as advanced a shape as some other brands, quite heavy DMM WALLNUTS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: A curvier alternative to Black Diamond or Wild Country SHAPE: Standard with a bit of extra curve NUMBER IN SET: 11 PROS: Different shape gives more variety of placements CONS: Can get stuck quite easily METOLIUS CURVE NUTS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: A second set of nuts SHAPE: Curved sides NUMBER IN SET: 10 PROS: Curved shape gives a huge variety of placement options, lightweight CONS: Softer wire means nuts can get stuck more easily BLACK DIAMOND MICRO STOPPERS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: Really small placements SHAPE: Standard NUMBER IN SET: 6 PROS: Copper/iron mix provides great ‘bite’ in small placements, comes with racking carabiner CONS: Smallest two sizes are for direct aid placements only – they’re not strong enough for free climbing DMM MICRO WALLNUTS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: Thin cracks SHAPE: Standard NUMBER IN SET: 4 PROS: Color coded, large surface area for a small nut CONS: Smallest two sizes for direct aid only BLACK DIAMOND OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: Flared thin cracks, aid climbing SHAPE: Offset NUMBER IN SET: 6 PROS: Copper/iron mix bites really well, flared shape fits granite cracks perfectly CONS: Smallest two sizes for direct aid only DMM ALLOY OFFSETS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: Granite cracks SHAPE: Offset NUMBER IN SET: 5 PROS: Offset shape fits perfectly into flared granite cracks CONS: Only available in larger sizes, heavy WILD COUNTRY SUPERLIGHT OFFSETS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | Backcountry BEST FOR: Alpine climbing SHAPE: Offset NUMBER IN SET: 6 PROS: Thin shape fits into shallow cracks easily, lightweight CONS: Soft wire makes removal tricky COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CLIMBING NUTS PICTURENUTSBEST USENUMBER IN SETTYPEPRICERATING PICTURENUTSBEST USENUMBER IN SETTYPEPRICERATING Black Diamond StoppersAll Round10Standard$4.7 Wild Country RocksAll Round14Standard$$5 Omega Pacific Wedgie NutsAll Round13Standard$5 DMM WallnutsSecond Set11Curved$4.8 Metolius Curve NutsSecond Set10Curved$$$5 Black Diamond Micro StoppersSmall Placements6Micro$$$5 DMM Micro WallnutsSmall Placements4Micro$S5 Black Diamond Offset Micro StoppersSmall Flared Placements6Micro Offset$SS5 DMM Alloy OffsetsFlared Placements5Offset$SS4.8 Wild Country Superlight OffsetsFlared Placements6Offset$S5 Gear up for climbing, without breaking the bankGet the Latest Deals on Climbing GearSent right to your inbox...GEAR UP FOR CLIMBING HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING NUTS SHAPE Most climbing nuts have some kind of tapered shape, with all four sides flaring out from the base to the top of the nut. Different manufacturers will make their nuts in slightly different shapes. Which is best? There isn’t one shape that’s always better than another. How well a nut fits into a placement depends on the placement itself. It’s good to have a range of shapes of nuts on your rack. This means you’re more likely to have one to fit any particular placement well. Do this by having nuts from a range of manufacturers. OFFSET NUTS Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. MICRO NUTS Micro nuts are, simply, really small nuts. They’re often made out of brass, which is softer than the alloy used in bigger nuts. Although they’re essential for really tiny placements, they’re not as versatile as larger sized nuts as they can’t be placed sideways in the crack. Micro nuts also aren’t as strong as bigger nuts. Some are often only rated up to a few kiloNewtons, which can easily be exceeded if you take a big fall onto them. Because of this, micro nuts are only really used for marginal placements and aid climbing. Having a few on your rack might increase your confidence where there would be no other gear, but they shouldn’t be relied on to hold big falls. NUMBER OF NUTS Nut sets usually have around ten nuts on them. Buying a set is usually the cheapest way to buy them, so try to pick one that has enough nuts on it to get you started. You’re looking for a big range of sizes and at least ten nuts. The exception to this is some more specialized nuts such as offset nuts and micro nuts. These tend to come in sets of 5-6. You can buy nuts individually too, which is great if you lose one or just need an extra size. LEARN TO PLACE THEM The best nuts in the world are useless if you don’t know how to use them. Once you’ve bought your first set (or have borrowed a friends), go out and learn to place them correctly. The safest way to do this is to walk along the bottom of the rock face and find suitable cracks to place them in. Check the nut seems secure, then clip a sling and carabiner to it and stand on it. If it holds, it’s a good sign! When placing a nut you need to match the size and curve of the nut to the shape of the crack. Look for a constriction in the crack that will hold the nut. Slot it in when it’s wider above, then slide it down to let it sit in the constriction. You want to get as much surface area as possible in contact between the nut and the rock. ‘Seat’ the nut by giving it a good, hard tug downwards. This stops it being lifted out or moved around by the motion of the rope as you climb. It’s easiest to do this by attaching a quickdraw. It’s a good idea to get professional instruction on placing trad gear before heading out on your first trad climbs. GET SOME RACKING CARABINERS As well as buying a shiny new set of nuts, you’ll need to get some carabiners to rack them on, so you can clip them to your harness. Most people rack 5-10 nuts on one carabiner. If you have more than one set of nuts, it’s personal preference whether you rack the big and small ones together, or a full set on each carabiner. If you go for grouping them by size it’s easier to find the right nut for a placement, but you’re more likely to drop all your big or small nuts. Rack nuts on a snapgate carabiner. Using a carabiner with a solid gate (rather than a wire gate) can stop nuts getting caught in the gate and then being dropped. Make sure the carabiner is big enough to comfortably hold all the nuts. This will make it easier to select the right one and stop them getting tangled together. GET A NUT TOOL A nut tool is essential if you’re going to place nuts on your climbs. Sometimes nuts can be removed simply by wiggling them and reversing the direction that they went in to the crack. But often they can’t – they will have become wedged in place and need more force to remove. This is where your nut tool comes in. This is a long metal hook, that can be used to ‘hammer’ the nut out. They’re also really useful for retrieving stuck cams that have walked out of reach, or cleaning out grassy or muddy cracks to find a placement. Every trad climber needs a nut tool. Look for one that has a fairly wide base to hit with your hand. If it’s too sharp you’ll get a really sore hand trying to bash your nuts out! ROCK CLIMBING RESOURCESTABLE OF CONTENTSROCK CLIMBINGTABLE OF CONTENTS 1. BASICS 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 6. TRAINING 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 7. SAFETY 4. CLIMBING GEAR 8. PSYCHOLOGY 1. BASICS 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 4. CLIMBING GEAR 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 6. TRAINING 7. SAFETY 8. PSYCHOLOGY Disclosure: The Adventure Junkies is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost for you. We also use other affiliate programs like REI, LeisurePro, Diviac and Liveaboard.com.