ContentsQUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDSCLIMBING HANGBOARDS REVIEWSTRANGO ROCK PRODIGYMETOLIUS ROCK RINGSSOILL BOOSTMETOLIUS PROJECTPROBLEMSOLVERTRANSGRESSIONBAM!METOLIUS SIMULATOR 3DMOON FINGERBOARDBEASTMAKER 2000COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDSHOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDSPURPOSEHOLD TYPES AND SIZESCUSTOMIZABILITY AND SIZETEXTURE Many climbers turn to physical training to help boost their performance. One of the best and oldest tools for finger strength training is the hangboard, also called a finger board. Naturally, a favorite training strategy of climbers when they’re away from the rock or the gym is to hang off their own at-home structure, so we’re here to help you choose the best climbing hangboard to do just that. Hangboarding is a training technique used to build finger strength, but hangboards can meet a multitude of training goals. Depending on the board you choose, you can train all sorts of grip types and track your progression. We recommend finding a safe and applicable hangboard training program to get you started. For more of out top climbing gear recommendations, check out these popular articles: Ropes | Harnesses | Helmets | Backpacks Climbing Shoes | Approach Shoes | Pants | Shorts | Shirts Carabiners | Cams | Nuts | Quickdraws | Pulleys | Belay Devices Bouldering Shoes | Bouldering Pants | Crash Pads cloud-downloadCLICK HERE to Download our FREE Quick Starter Guide to Climbing. Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/takoburitoPhoto by istockphoto.com/portfolio/alexbrylov QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDS Trango Rock Prodigy Metolius Rock Rings SoiLL Boost Metolius Project Problemsolver Trangression bam! Metolius Simulator 3D Moon Fingerboard Beastmaker 2000 CLIMBING HANGBOARDS REVIEWS TRANGO ROCK PRODIGY Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI MATERIAL: Plastic DIMENSIONS: 9.1 inch x 12.1 inch (Each half) HOLD TYPES: 15+ different grips CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes PROS: Board designed by the Anderson brothers, covers most trainable grip positions including excellent pinches which orient thumb on bottom, texture is grippy CONS: More difficult and involved to mount than other boards METOLIUS ROCK RINGS Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI MATERIAL: Plastic DIMENSIONS: 7.25 inch x 5.75 inch x 2.5 inch HOLD TYPES: Jug with slot pockets CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes PROS: Inexpensive, innovative, portable training device, friendly on skin, allows for rotation of joints because of free hanging design CONS: Not for advanced climbers, very little hold variety SOILL BOOST Check out the latest price on: Amazon MATERIAL: Plastic DIMENSIONS: 24 inch x 9.5 inch x 2.25 inch HOLD TYPES: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths CUSTOMIZABLE: No PROS: Beginner friendly with progression of hold depths for use as climbers develop strength CONS: Quite large and bulky METOLIUS PROJECT Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI MATERIAL: Plastic DIMENSIONS: 24.5 inch x 6 inch HOLD TYPES: Jugs, slopers, pockets CUSTOMIZABLE: No PROS: Inexpensive, friendly on the skin, with a variety of holds that taper downward ergonomically CONS: Additional board required for mounting PROBLEMSOLVER Check out the latest price on: Problemsolver MATERIAL: Wood DIMENSIONS: 15.75 inch x 6.3 inch x 0.95 inch HOLD TYPES: Edges of variable depth CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes PROS: Portable and customizable hangboard that is great for traveling, comes with inserts to create variable depth holds, board can be tilted to change angle, holds can be added to the back of board to train additional grips positions CONS: Requires a structure to be hung from every time, minimal grip variation TRANSGRESSION Check out the latest price on: Transgression MATERIAL: Plastic DIMENSIONS: 15 inch x 22.8 inch x 5.9 inch HOLD TYPES: Eight edges of decreasing size from 18mm to 6mm CUSTOMIZABLE: No PROS: Decreasing edge sizes from top to bottom, offering pure finger strength benefits; one of the only boards and training methods derived from a doctoral thesis CONS: Limited to pure finger strength, no variation in hold types BAM! Check out the latest price on: Bam Climbing MATERIAL: Wood DIMENSIONS: 2 foot x 2 inch x 3.5 inch HOLD TYPES: Edges, pockets, and slopers range of varying difficulty CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes PROS: Very narrow height makes this board a good space saver, minimal and effective with adjustable depth and angle, board rotates in 10 degree increments from 0 – 30 degrees CONS: Not suitable for beginner climbers METOLIUS SIMULATOR 3D Check out the latest price on: Amazon | REI MATERIAL: Plastic DIMENSIONS: 28 inch x 8.75 inch HOLD TYPES: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths CUSTOMIZABLE: No PROS: Number one selling training board in the world, board tapers for better ergonomic benefits to climbers, multiple grip options to ease progression CONS: Additional board required for mounting MOON FINGERBOARD Check out the latest price on: Moon Climbing MATERIAL: Wood DIMENSIONS: 27.5 inch x 5.5 inch x 1.5 inch HOLD TYPES: Edges, pockets, and slopers CUSTOMIZABLE: No PROS: Simple and compact advanced board with few hold types, designed with a “less is more” philosophy in mind CONS: Not suitable for beginner climbers, board is difficult to acquire BEASTMAKER 2000 Check out the latest price on: Amazon MATERIAL: Wood DIMENSIONS: 23 inch x 6 inch x 2.25 inch HOLD TYPES: 45, 35 and 20 degree slopers, multiple pockets from three finger to mono CUSTOMIZABLE: No PROS: Comfy on hands, wide variety of holds carefully designed to minimize chance of injury CONS: No pinches or small crimps, can be slippery COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDS PICTUREHANGBOARDBEST FORMATERIALCUSTOMIZABLEPRICERATING PICTUREHANGBOARDBEST FORMATERIALCUSTOMIZABLEPRICERATING Trango Rock Prodigy BeginnersPlasticYes$$5 Metolius Rock RingsBeginnersPlasticYes$4.7 SoiLL Boost BeginnersPlasticNo$$4.5 Metolius Project BeginnersPlasticNo$4.3 Problemsolver IntermediateWoodYes$5 Trangression IntermediatePlasticNo$$$5 SONY DSCbam! IntermediateWoodYes$$5 Metolius Simulator 3D IntermediatePlasticNo$4.8 Moon FingerboardAdvancedWoodNo$5 Beastmaker 2000AdvancedWoodNo$$5 Gear up for climbing, without breaking the bankGet the Latest Deals on Climbing GearSent right to your inbox...GEAR UP FOR CLIMBING HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDS PURPOSE Before purchasing a hangboard you need to assess your ability and consider your specific training goals. Hangboarding can be hard on the body and it is critical to pair your equipment with your current level. Some boards offer a friendly introduction to beginners whereas others are intended for climbers with extensive hangboarding experience. There are many ways to train for rock climbing, but when it comes to hand and finger strength, hangboards are the way to go. Consider whether you want to train multiple grip positions using slopers, pockets and edges, or pure finger strength using an open hand or half crimp position. HOLD TYPES AND SIZES If you are aiming to improve your stamina in a variety of different hand positions, choose a hangboard with many grip types. Several hangboards offer an assortment of jugs, slopers, edges, and pockets. Boards with a lot of variation and positive holds make it easier to warm up before starting your actual work out. They are also beneficial for beginners. If pure finger strength is the goal, there are two options for how to pursue gains. The first is to decrease the size of the edges the climber is holding, and the second is to add weight to the climber’s body as they hang from a given hold. To best approach finger strength gains it is important to have a board with a progression of holds that become smaller or less positive. Take care to ease yourself onto smaller holds gradually to minimize risk of injury. CUSTOMIZABILITY AND SIZE Nowadays several companies produce hangboards that the climber can customize for their training. Some boards have a separate right and left side so they can be mounted at the perfect width for your body. Other boards come with inserts to change edge depths or built in rotation features to change the angle of holds. It is worth considering the size and space required to hang your board as well. If you’re always on the road, check out the small, portable options that are hitting the market. Some hangboards take up very little space but can be customized to meet a progression of difficulties. On the other hand, if you have a full training space in your home you could indulge in a larger board that has a lot to offer. TEXTURE There is no point in owning a hangboard if you find it too uncomfortable to hang on! We recommend testing the hangboards at your climbing gym, or feeling the surface of available boards in a local shop before making your purchase. Most hangboards are made of either plastic, typically a polyurethane or polyester resin, or wood. Resins can be molded into any shape; thus plastic hangboards can offer many different hold types. The friction is greater due to the fine grained texture, but they can be uncomfortable on the skin. It is possible to sand down sharp edges on a plastic hangboard if they are too rough. Wood can be more comfortable on the skin, but is not for everyone. Some people find wood hangboards difficult to grip due to reduced friction during grueling sessions. Wooden boards are also limited by the variety of grip types they are offered. ROCK CLIMBING RESOURCESTABLE OF CONTENTSROCK CLIMBINGTABLE OF CONTENTS 1. BASICS 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 6. TRAINING 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 7. SAFETY 4. CLIMBING GEAR 8. PSYCHOLOGY 1. BASICS 2. KNOTS & ANCHORS 3. CLIMBING SKILLS 4. CLIMBING GEAR 5. CLIMBING CLOTHES 6. TRAINING 7. SAFETY 8. PSYCHOLOGY Disclosure: The Adventure Junkies is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost for you. We also use other affiliate programs like REI, LeisurePro, Diviac and Liveaboard.com.