Many climbers turn to physical training to help boost their performance. One of the best and oldest tools for finger strength training is the hangboard, also called a finger board. Naturally, a favorite training strategy of climbers when they’re away from the rock or the gym is to hang off their own at-home structure, so we’re here to help you choose the best climbing hangboard to do just that.

Hangboarding is a training technique used to build finger strength, but hangboards can meet a multitude of training goals. Depending on the board you choose, you can train all sorts of grip types and track your progression.

We recommend finding a safe and applicable hangboard training program to get you started.

 

THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARD – QUICK ANSWER

  1. Trango Rock Prodigy
  2. Metolius Rock Rings
  3. SoiLL Boost
  4. Metolius Project
  5. Problemsolver
  6. Trangression
  7. bam!
  8. Metolius Simulator 3D
  9. Moon Fingerboard
  10. Beastmaker 2000

 

 

FREE BONUS! Click here to download the AJ Quick Starter Guide To Climbing

 

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO FIND THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARD

PICTURE
HANGBOARD
BEST FOR
MATERIAL
CUSTOMIZABLE
PRICE
RATING
PICTURE
HANGBOARD
BEST FOR
MATERIAL
CUSTOMIZABLE
PRICE
RATING
Trango Rock Prodigy
Beginners
Plastic
Yes
$$
5
Metolius Rock Rings
Beginners
Plastic
Yes
$
4.7
SoiLL Boost
Beginners
Plastic
No
$$
4.5
Metolius Project
Beginners
Plastic
No
$
4.3
Problemsolver
Intermediate
Wood
Yes
$
5
Trangression
Intermediate
Plastic
No
$$$
5

SONY DSC

bam!
Intermediate
Wood
Yes
$$
5
Metolius Simulator 3D
Intermediate
Plastic
No
$
4.8
Moon Fingerboard
Advanced
Wood
No
$
5
Beastmaker 2000
Advanced
Wood
No
$$
5

 

 

CLIMBING HANGBOARDS 101

 

4 THINGS TO CONSIDER TO FIND THE BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARD

 

1. PURPOSE

Before purchasing a hangboard you need to assess your ability and consider your specific training goals. Hangboarding can be hard on the body and it is critical to pair your equipment with your current level. Some boards offer a friendly introduction to beginners whereas others are intended for climbers with extensive hangboarding experience.

There are many ways to train for rock climbing, but when it comes to hand and finger strength, hangboards are the way to go. Consider whether you want to train multiple grip positions using slopers, pockets and edges, or pure finger strength using an open hand or half crimp position.

 

2. HOLD TYPES AND SIZES

If you are aiming to improve your stamina in a variety of different hand positions, choose a hangboard with many grip types. Several hangboards offer an assortment of jugs, slopers, edges, and pockets. Boards with a lot of variation and positive holds make it easier to warm up before starting your actual work out. They are also beneficial for beginners.

If pure finger strength is the goal, there are two options for how to pursue gains. The first is to decrease the size of the edges the climber is holding, and the second is to add weight to the climber’s body as they hang from a given hold. To best approach finger strength gains it is important to have a board with a progression of holds that become smaller or less positive.

Take care to ease yourself onto smaller holds gradually to minimize risk of injury.

 

3. CUSTOMIZABILITY AND SIZE

Nowadays several companies produce hangboards that the climber can customize for their training. Some boards have a separate right and left side so they can be mounted at the perfect width for your body. Other boards come with inserts to change edge depths or built in rotation features to change the angle of holds.

It is worth considering the size and space required to hang your board as well. If you’re always on the road, check out the small, portable options that are hitting the market. Some hangboards take up very little space but can be customized to meet a progression of difficulties. On the other hand, if you have a full training space in your home you could indulge in a larger board that has a lot to offer.

 

4. TEXTURE

There is no point in owning a hangboard if you find it too uncomfortable to hang on! We recommend testing the hangboards at your climbing gym, or feeling the surface of available boards in a local shop before making your purchase. Most hangboards are made of either plastic, typically a polyurethane or polyester resin, or wood.

Resins can be molded into any shape; thus plastic hangboards can offer many different hold types. The friction is greater due to the fine grained texture, but they can be uncomfortable on the skin. It is possible to sand down sharp edges on a plastic hangboard if they are too rough.

Wood can be more comfortable on the skin, but is not for everyone. Some people find wood hangboards difficult to grip due to reduced friction during grueling sessions. Wooden boards are also limited by the variety of grip types they are offered.

 

best hangboard to use for climbing

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/takoburito

 

CLIMBING HANGBOARD REVIEWS

 

1. BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDS FOR BEGINNER USERS AND UP

TRANGO ROCK PRODIGY

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon | REI

MATERIAL: Plastic

DIMENSIONS: 9.1 inch x 12.1 inch (Each half)

HOLD TYPES: 15+ different grips

CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes

PROS: Board designed by the Anderson brothers, covers most trainable grip positions including excellent pinches which orient thumb on bottom, texture is grippy

CONS: More difficult and involved to mount than other boards

 

 

 

METOLIUS ROCK RINGS

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon | REI

MATERIAL: Plastic

DIMENSIONS: 7.25 inch x 5.75 inch x 2.5 inch

HOLD TYPES: Jug with slot pockets

CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes

PROS: Inexpensive, innovative, portable training device, friendly on skin, allows for rotation of joints because of free hanging design

CONS: Not for advanced climbers, very little hold variety

 

 

 

SOILL BOOST

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

MATERIAL: Plastic

DIMENSIONS: 24 inch x 9.5 inch x 2.25 inch

HOLD TYPES: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths

CUSTOMIZABLE: No

PROS: Beginner friendly with progression of hold depths for use as climbers develop strength

CONS: Quite large and bulky

 

 

 

METOLIUS PROJECT

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon | REI

MATERIAL: Plastic

DIMENSIONS: 24.5 inch x 6 inch

HOLD TYPES: Jugs, slopers, pockets

CUSTOMIZABLE: No

PROS: Inexpensive, friendly on the skin, with a variety of holds that taper downward ergonomically

CONS: Additional board required for mounting

 

 

 

 

2. BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDS FOR INTERMEDIATE USERS AND UP

PROBLEMSOLVER

Check out the latest price on:
Problemsolver

MATERIAL: Wood

DIMENSIONS: 15.75 inch x 6.3 inch x 0.95 inch

HOLD TYPES: Edges of variable depth

CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes

PROS: Portable and customizable hangboard that is great for traveling, comes with inserts to create variable depth holds, board can be tilted to change angle, holds can be added to the back of board to train additional grips positions

CONS: Requires a structure to be hung from every time, minimal grip variation

 

 

 

 

TRANSGRESSION

Check out the latest price on:
Transgression

MATERIAL: Plastic

DIMENSIONS: 15 inch x 22.8 inch x 5.9 inch

HOLD TYPES: Eight edges of decreasing size from 18mm to 6mm

CUSTOMIZABLE: No

PROS: Decreasing edge sizes from top to bottom, offering pure finger strength benefits; one of the only boards and training methods derived from a doctoral thesis

CONS: Limited to pure finger strength, no variation in hold types

 

 

 

 

BAM!

Check out the latest price on:
Bam Climbing

MATERIAL: Wood

DIMENSIONS: 2 foot x 2 inch x 3.5 inch

HOLD TYPES: Edges, pockets, and slopers range of varying difficulty

CUSTOMIZABLE: Yes

PROS: Very narrow height makes this board a good space saver, minimal and effective with adjustable depth and angle, board rotates in 10 degree increments from 0 – 30 degrees

CONS: Not suitable for beginner climbers

 

 

 

METOLIUS SIMULATOR 3D

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon | REI

MATERIAL: Plastic

DIMENSIONS: 28 inch x 8.75 inch

HOLD TYPES: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths

CUSTOMIZABLE: No

PROS: Number one selling training board in the world, board tapers for better ergonomic benefits to climbers, multiple grip options to ease progression

CONS: Additional board required for mounting

 

 

 

 

3. BEST CLIMBING HANGBOARDS FOR ADVANCED USERS

MOON FINGERBOARD

Check out the latest price on:
Moon Climbing

MATERIAL: Wood

DIMENSIONS: 27.5 inch x 5.5 inch x 1.5 inch

HOLD TYPES: Edges, pockets, and slopers

CUSTOMIZABLE: No

PROS: Simple and compact advanced board with few hold types, designed with a “less is more” philosophy in mind

CONS: Not suitable for beginner climbers, board is difficult to acquire

 

 

 

BEASTMAKER 2000

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

MATERIAL: Wood

DIMENSIONS: 23 inch x 6 inch x 2.25 inch

HOLD TYPES: 45, 35 and 20 degree slopers, multiple pockets from three finger to mono

CUSTOMIZABLE: No

PROS: Comfy on hands, wide variety of holds carefully designed to minimize chance of injury

CONS: No pinches or small crimps, can be slippery

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